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New York City Guide

Newsletter 8 - St Pat's Day 2000


We're sorry to say that after June 2000, because of changes in our service provider's operations and a host of other circumstances, we were forced to discontinue publication of what -- we thought -- was a information packed digest. We hope to be able to resume sometime in the future

Contents

St Patrick's Day Parade
Irish Pubs, Bars and Restaurants
Corned Beef and Cabbage

St Patrick's Day Parade

When Friday, March 17th, 11:00A
Where Fifth Avenue from 42nd Street to 86th Street, Manhattan
Getting There Any subway to Midtown
Best Viewing Anywhere along the route
Forecast Bring an umbrella

The first St Patrick's Day parade in New York City was held in 1766 organized by Irish soldiers serving in His Majesty's service. City folk marched for any and all reasons back then, usually organized along fraternal, trade or military organizational lines. The early St Patrick's Day marchers would form up at their parish churches or their organizations' headquarters and march to the old St Patrick's Cathedral (now at Mott and Prince Streets). The Archbishop greeted the groups, dignitaries and politicians addressed the crowd and the marchers dispersed in search of a bit of St Patty's Day pleasure

As the City moved uptown so did the parade, marching to the far reaches of the City and the site of the new St Patrick's Cathedral on Fifth Avenue and 50th Street. Today's parade starts at 42nd Street and marchers travel north to 86th Street. It is customary for the New York Archbishop to review the parade in front of St Patrick's, though Cardinal O'Connor's health is declining and no word as to his plans has been released

The St Patrick's Day Parade is one of the few remaining where no cars, floats, buses, trucks or other vehicles are allowed. People march, march, march up Fifth Avenue, led by members of the 165th Infantry (originally the Irish 69th Regiment of Fighting Irish fame). Sponsored by the Ancient Order of Hibernians, the more than 150,000 marchers are members of various Irish societies from New York and around the country; many Eire-based societies make the Atlantic crossing to trek the two miles uptown. Large contingents include the Emerald Societies of the New York City Police and Fire Departments (more on these later), and any politician running for office within a 50-mile radius. Much controversy has recently surrounded the parade because the sponsors would not allow gay and lesbian groups to march under their own banners. This year's parade is supposed to be 'inclusive,' with these groups forming their own contingents within the parade. Politicians no longer have to choose between a rock and a hard place: don't march and offend the powerful Irish constituency, march and offend the equally powerful gay and lesbian lobby. Hilary and Rudy breathed sighs of relief

Viewing the parade is a snap. It starts 11:00A at 42nd Street and makes it way up Fifth Avenue to 86th Street. There is no best place to see the parade, though the Archbishop usually greets the marchers at St Patrick's Cathedral. Take any subway to Midtown and walk over to Fifth Avenue. Don't try to drive; you won't get very far. Similarly, traffic is affected on all streets surrounding the parade route; a bus will get you nowhere fast

Irish Pubs, Bars and Restaurants

If you want a bit of the blarney to go with your St Patrick's Day festivities stop into one of the City's many Irish watering holes. Here you'll meet the Irish, the almost-Irish, those who want to be Irish and maybe some folks who are just leftover from the night before

St Pat's is celebrated on a Friday this year so there's no excuse for most people to go home. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind:

Don't expect white table cloth service on the 17th, owners have learned to remove everything not nailed down (tables, chairs, partitions, bar stools) and use plastic cups to keep the damage and injuries down. Be prepared to wait if you want something more than beer splashed in a cup (and on the bar). And don't try to fib when you get home. If you walk into an Irish bar on St Patty's Day you will walk out with beer spilled on your clothes. There's no escape

Many popular Irish nightspots charge a cover on St Patrick's Day, usually $5 or $10. This is to keep out the riff-raff and to try to stay within the fire codes (with all the fireman inside it's already too crowded). If you're a regular customer you usually don't have to pay, but if you're a regular, you're not reading this

Steer clear of kids. Most bars succeed in keeping them out but many teenagers bring their own supply of beer, booze and other intoxicants. You'll find them on the street, in the street or bent over trashcans. If they look like they're really in trouble, call a cop. Speaking of which . . .

You'll be sure to run into a few New York City police or fire personnel who work hard and play harder, plus many of their out-of-town compatriots. We advise discretion; these are tight-knit groups that might not respond the way you expected to that oh, so funny comment

'Nuff said. Here are some good Irish joints:

Kennedy's
327 W 57th Street | 212-759-4242 | Manhattan
A West Side standard for many years, they know how to do it

Langan's Bar & Restaurant
150 W 47th Street | 212-869-5482 | Manhattan
One of the best of the 'lace curtain' Irish haunts

Maggie's Place
21 E 47th Street | 212-753-5757 | Manhattan
A big after work hangout. Expect brokers, analysts, secretaries and more

Abbey Tavern
354 Third Avenue | 212-532-1978 | Manhattan
Usually a younger crowd and Irish rock

Cleary's
583 Third Avenue | 212-599-9784 | Manhattan
Great for a shot and a beer. Cop bar

Eamon Doran's
998 Second Avenue | 212-755-9191 | Manhattan
Don't understand what they're saying? Funny football on TV? It's Eamon's

Emerald Pub
308 Spring Street | 212-226-8512 | Manhattan
One of Downtown's best

Finnegan's Wake
1361 First Avenue | 212-737-3664 | Manhattan
Only the Irish do it like this

Grand Stand
85-35 Grand Avenue | 718-478-9633 | Elmhurst
It's grand. It's a saloon. It's crowded. It's Irish

Judge 'n Jury
7901 Third Avenue | 718-491-2967 | Bay Ridge
An old Brooklyn standby

We've got many more places for you to celebrate the green. You can find almost 100 of them at our Irish Pub, Bar and Restaurant Guide

Corned Beef and Cabbage

Where does corned beef come? Why does any good Irishman say they don't eat corned beef and cabbage in the old sod? Why do we associate it with the Irish in America? It's impossible to answer these questions, but here are some ideas:

Corned beef is a wet cured product; the meat is soaked in a brine of salt and a mixture of spices. Curing meats by smoking or brining originated thousands of years ago. The 'corn' in corned beef refers to the kernels or 'kerns' of salt used in the curing process. Since this is an old Anglo-Saxon word, let's assume that the Celts of some hundreds of years ago had heard of it and used a similar process. Let's also assume that the process was used in Eastern Europe (and many other parts of the colder weather world)

The tenant farmers of Ireland, like serfs most anywhere, subsisted mainly on the root crops and other vegetables they could grow, plus bits of beef, pork and lamb not sent to the landlord. Tenants, again like other serfs, were given the less desirable cuts, hence the prevalence of sausage and sausage-like items in many peasant cuisines. The better of these lesser cuts leant themselves to curing or 'kerning' all across northern Europe, to hold them through the months ahead

If you talk to a person who has lived in Ireland he or she might grudgingly admit that yes, they do eat a cabbage and meat dish, but it's usually cabbage and bacon. The Irish-style bacon that wet-cured, or 'kerned'

Meanwhile, back in eastern and central Europe the German, Jewish and Slavic serfs were wet curing their meats. With greater access to spices from the Orient they came up with the now traditional mix of peppercorns, dill seed, coriander and a touch of garlic to liven up the finished product

Now come the great migrations of the 1800s. Immigrants from throughout Europe teamed into the eastern United States. From Baltimore to Boston the waterfronts became a Babel of languages. Nowhere else was the concentration and diversity as great as New York City. Once on the island of Manhattan, if they didn't have relatives in Brooklyn or across the Hudson in New Jersey, immigrants settled on the Lower East Side. There the melting pot was brought to a simmer. The eastern Europeans were more likely to emigrate from their homes with family and goods. Irish immigrants of the day were mostly young lads looking for work with an eye toward returning home

Here's how we see it: The eastern Europeans brought their cured meat recipes; the Irish workers brought their appetites

For Jim's corned beef recipe and a couple of secrets from New York City restaurant people (including a Chinese twist) be sure to click here

Hope you enjoyed the newsletter. See you in a couple of weeks with our April issue,

Susie and Jim

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